My Dumb Dog

November 13, 2008

Havanese Litter Box Training Myth Or Reality? What’s The Use Of Havanese Litter Box Training?

Filed under: Potty Training — admin @ 11:50 am

Training a dog to use a litter pan is perfectly unnatural to canine instinct. However, living in an apartment and not having to hunt or scavenge their food is also perfectly unnatural to canine behavior. But dogs have adapted happily and thrive in an urban or small home environment. One of the breeds of small doge that have taken any adaptations in their care are Havanese. Training them are usually easier than in other small dog breeds.

And now the demands of modern work schedules mean that Havanese will be called on to adapt yet again; this time, to Havanese litter box training. In the last few years, there has been a push by dog owners to litter train small dogs. Big pet manufacturers have listened, such as Purina with their Second Nature product line of pans, litter, and really funny promotional videos. Never has it been easier to try Havanese litter box training.
If you’ve ever had to housetrain a puppy, then you already have the basic training down for teaching your Havanese to use a litter pan. You watch for the signs that your Havanese has to go – sniffing, circling, whining, scratching at the door – and then you lead the Havanese to the litter box. But you can lead a Havanese to the litter box, but you can’t always make them go. Never yell, hit or swear at your dog. They confused enough as to where they are supposed to go as it is.

Some things you can do to encourage and reassure your Havanese that using a litter pan is okay is to place newspaper with the dog’s urine on it in the pan. You can also teach your dog to eliminate on command. Although dog training books will usually not have information specifically about Havanese litter box training, they will on how to teach your dog to eliminate on command.
You need patience and consistency when teaching your dog to eliminate by verbal command. You need everyone in the family to follow along and use the same command. You need to use this short command like “Show time,” or “Go, please,” EVERY time the dog pees or poops. Yes – every single time. Give the command, praise the dog and treat. Eventually, they associate the command with the act of elimination.

If this sounds familiar, it should be. This Havanese litter box training tip is a variation of the conditioned response old Pavlov did in his famous experiments of teaching a dog to drool at the sound of a bell. Every dog learns at his or her own rate. Some take a lot longer to learn than others. If your dog seems to get the idea but still has accidents, a trip to the vet is on order to rule out any medical conditions.

This author believes that if you can learn Havanese training, you have the capacity to train any dog. All animal shelters and recues should be giving away free dog training books to each dog’s adoptive family.

Find Out How to Handle of Puppy Care and Pitbull Dogs

Filed under: Training — admin @ 12:28 am

How To Feed Your Puppy

A puppy always tells his dog owner whether he is getting too much or too little food in several ways. Crying is one of the most often recognized, but least likely to be always accurate. Although hungry puppies do cry, so do cold puppies, hot puppies, puppies that were disturbed from a nap, lost puppies, sad puppies, etc.

Crying is simply nature’s way of giving a puppy a means of telling everybody that he is unhappy. Anything that makes a puppy unhappy will probably also make him cry, even having his tummy too full. Therefore, to say that a puppy is crying because he is hungry requires a judgment on the owner’s part. And since we do not think like a puppy, we have to use the reactions of the puppy’s system to determine whether or not he is getting enough to eat.

Every time you feed a puppy, two things should happen. First, he should have a bowel movement and second, he should urinate. Sometimes a puppy may need a little encouragement by rubbing his anal area, but he should always perform both acts if everything is going right. The makeup and amount of his feces and urine are important clues that tell you how well you are doing when it comes to properly feeding your pet. For one thing, the puppy’s stool should be formed as it is expelled, but its consistency should be soft and pasty. The color will depend to some extent on what you are feeding him. But in every case, it should not vary from a pale tan to a mahogany brown. The inside of the stool may be yellow-brown in many cases. Stools that are green, bluish-white or clear signal trouble.

Even tan or brownish stools that are watery, lumpy, hard or curdled may indicate something is not right.

Begin the following feeding with a formula that has been diluted one-half with boiled water. Continue to feed the same quantity as you did the undiluted food. If this fails to produce an improvement in the stool, reduce the quantity you are feeding by 25 % at each stool.

The quantity should be about the same each time the puppy urinates. It might be pale yellow to almost clear, but should never be deep yellow or orange. Also, it should always be like water and never like syrup and should smell like urine. Urine that is scanty, dark in color, or syrupy, indicates that the pup is not getting enough water. More water should be supplied, either added to the formula or fed separately. If the urine seems excessive in amount, unduly clear, or thin, the water concentration of the formula should be re-checked to make sure that he is not getting too much water. If urine production stops altogether for longer than four feedings, take the puppy to a vet as soon as poss puppy care.

Read more about pitbull dogs and how to house train dog.

November 12, 2008

Choosing The Right Dog Training Lead For Your Pet

Filed under: Training Tips — admin @ 1:40 am

When a new dog is brought home for the first time, the pet is usually greeted with all the comforts that will make up their new home. In addition to new food dishes and shiny toys, there’s usually a bed along with a new collar and leash waiting. For those that aren’t familiar with raising a new puppy or dog, things like dog training leads and House Breaking a Dog will usually be overlooked.

Before You Buy

Before a dog owner decides to run out and buy a dog training lead, there are a number of things that should be considered. Firstly, the breed along with their weight and height are the most important aspect. If you try to use a dog training lead that isn’t heavy or strong enough for your dog’s breed and weight, the lead simply will not do its job, therefore leaving you back at square one.

Another thing to consider before purchasing a dog training lead is to decide what style would best suit you and your needs. For example, if you live in a remote area that doesn’t have a lot of streets and traffic to deal with, a British style dog training lead would work perfectly for you. On the other hand, a traffic dog training and Bird Dog Training lead would work best for a dog and owner that lives a city life!

Where to Buy

When it comes time to purchase your dog training lead and Leather Dog Collars, the best way to do this is to visit your local pet supply store or dog training facility. By visiting a local expert, you’ll have the opportunity to ask as many questions as you can come up with, which in turn will help the expert pick up the dog training lead that best suits you.

If you prefer to shop on the Internet, the first thing you’ll need to do is write down a list of questions to get answers to by searching the web. If you can’t find enough information, call a veterinarian or trainer. They’ll be able to point you in the right direction. Finally, you’ll want the best deal on the lead that you want, so make sure to comparison shop. Just remember that shopping at websites you have heard of and trust is always the safest way to do business online.

After You Buy

You’ll want to make sure the dog training lead you own is always in great working order. Before using the lead, always check to make sure there are no strains or rips in the lead at any point. You’ll want to make sure the dog isn’t outgrowing the lead by putting your fingers between your dog and the lead after it’s put on, to make sure it’s not too snug.

If you ever have any doubts about the safety of the dog training lead you use, contact a professional that can attend to your concerns.

November 11, 2008

What Are The Most Common Golden Retriever Problems?

Filed under: Golden Retriever — admin @ 2:13 am

The Golden Retriever is truly a wonderful breed of dog, and it is really hard to find problems with them. They are large, athletic, natural looking, cheerful, steady tempered, and friendly. They are even great with children and are easy to train. There are however still certain Golden Retriever problems that may arise and which any owner or potential owner should be well aware of.

Golden Retrievers do require vigorous exercise requirements, regular brushing and combing, and are easy to develop separation anxiety as well as a variety of other health problems. A few of the most common health problems that this breed suffers from includes hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, epilepsy, hereditary heart disease, cancer, arthritis, allergies, and bloat. Although Golden Retrievers are generally a healthy breed do not be surprised if your dog develops one of these problems. Some even go unnoticeable for an extended period of time and this is why it is important that you keep a watchful eye on your dog and his behavior.
Hyperthyroidism is one of the most common Golden Retriever problems. In fact, it is recognized as being the most commonly diagnosed hormonal diseases found in dogs. Although it usually occurs between the ages of two to six years it can develop at any point in the dog’s life. There are a few obvious symptoms that typically appear at the onset of this condition, including thin coat, loss of hair, dandruff and increased scratching. The specific treatment that should be used will depend on the individual dog, and you will want to speak to your veterinarian for further information on this.

Another of the most common Golden Retriever problems is eye disease. Golden Retrievers are very prone to eye diseases of all sorts, in particular hereditary cataracts. This is a condition that can develop at any age and at different lens locations, usually without visual impairment. As long as it is caught and treated early, hereditary cataracts will not pose any serious threat to your dog.
It is imperative that all owners become more educated on the subject of Golden Retriever problems and about the different treatment methods that are available and which will be helpful here. You know your dog better than anyone else and so it is up to you to notice any changes in your dog both subtle and dramatic. As soon as you think that anything is wrong you should get the dog in to see your veterinarian so that they can make a proper assessment and enforce the necessary treatment.

By being careful and keeping a watchful eye on your dog’s health, you will be making sure that they live the longest and healthiest life possible. Dealing with Golden Retriever problems is not something that has to be difficult, but it may take some effort. Especially if the dog is older these sorts of health problems can take a while to treat but the good news is that they are usually always treatable and will not cause any long-term damage.

Although Golden Retriever training can help with behavioral problems it will not be able to treat health conditions. If you are looking for Dog training books to help you out with your dog’s behavioral problems you should head to any local pet store.

November 10, 2008

Deciding On Golden Retriever Breeder: Essential Dog Help

Filed under: Basic Information — admin @ 10:23 pm

Once you have made the decision to get a new Golden Retriever puppy, the first choice you will face is where to get your puppy from. No matter how hard you try, it’s almost impossible to know whether or not the puppy you are purchasing will grow up to be strong and healthy. In order to even assume that your puppy will grow up to be healthy, you’ll have to ghave faith in the person you get your Golden from.

There are three options open to you, in terms of breeders. You should carefully think about each one, as they all will vary. Below are the three options you have to choose from, and a little bit of information to help you make this very vital decision.

A pet shop is simply the worst place that you can get your Golden Retriever puppy. The puppies they have for sale here are likely to be poorly bred, and raised in poor locations to say the least. At these types of places, the puppies are thought of as a profit and nothing more. There is little to no emphasis on quality here either - as pet shops prefer quantity over qualify.

Due to the way the puppies are bred and brought up, pet shops make quite a bit of profit. With there being very little that goes into the breeding and care of the puppies, pet shops are in it to make money. They mainly rely on the impulse buy, not giving you a lot of time to evaluate the puppies that are offered for sale. If you’re looking for a new member to the family, and a pet that you know is well, you’d be muchbetter off looking somewhere else for your dog

Backyard breeders are considered to be yet another poor choice for your puppy. Nearly all backyard breeders are people who own a few Golden’s and find it to be fun to breed their female for the fact of having puppies, or breed her once or twice before they decide to go ahead and get her spayed. Backyard breeders don’t look for quality or go out of their way to care for their litters, as they are more or less breeding to make money - and nothing more.

Usually, backyard breeders know very little about the breed in general, and even less about how to properly look after their Golden Retrievers. Backyard breeders usually aren’t familiar with the issued associated with breeding, and many just do not care. Their only goal here is to breed Golden Retriever puppies. Once the puppies have been bred, their remaining goal is to sell the puppies as fast as they can - for the highest possible profit

Hobby breeders
A hobby breeder is the best way to get a Golden puppy. Hobby breeders are comitted and loyal and think and care for puppiess as much more than just a hobby. Although they do make money breeding, that is not a major concern. Hobby breeders care more about the quality of their puppies than anything else, and they are committed to helping you get the best Golden Retriever pup possible.

Hobby breeders accept responsibility for each and everyone of their puppies If you want the best puppy you can get for your budget, you should pay a visit to a hobby breeder. They very rarely produce poor quality Golden Retriever puppies, as quality is a paramount concern. If you get your Golden puppy from a hobby breeder, you can rest assured that you getting a healthy puppy right from the very beginning.

Other articles
crate train puppy
Toilet training puppies
house training puppies
once you get your puppy home you must start to house train your new pet. Check out these articles for great tips and advice.

Why Must Dogs Dig?

Filed under: Behavior Issues — admin @ 7:42 am

If you need to buy some Dog accessories then be sure to take a look now!

Dog Digging Habits - Be Their For Your Dogs Digging

Puppies love to dig! It’s in their blood and it is quite often their favorite pastime. This is especially true for young puppies that stem from the sporting group, the terrier group, and the Nordic group.

Digging is also a dog’s way of relieving stress and “letting it all out” so to speak. If a puppy is experiencing anxiety levels due to a new baby in the house, a recent move, strange people, or lack of attention, then he is going to dig in order to help himself feel better.

Fortunately there are ways in which you can help diminish your puppy’s digging behavior so that it is less destructive to your belongings while at the same time giving him a place to dig without being punished for it.

Training a dog not to dig his claws into areas that are not allowed requires a few steps to accomplish but when it is all said and done, the amount of destruction will be minimized.

1. The first thing you need to do is find one area that your puppy is allowed to dig in as much as he wants to. This could be somewhere in your house, in a nearby park, or better yet, in your backyard if you have the luxury of owning the property.

2. In that spot that your dog loves to dig at, take the time to bury some of his toys in the area as well as things like bones and more. Make it a game that you both can play with you burying the items and the puppy digging them up. This will definitely prove to be a fun game for the both of you.

3. Every day, go back to your dog’s digging area and instruct him to start digging by giving him a command. This command could be as simple as “Sparky, Go Dig!” After a while he will immediately begin clawing at the dirt in wild anticipation for the fun that lay ahead.

4. Once your dog learns this digging command, when you see him digging in a spot other than the designated area, reprimand him with a firm NO and take him to the designated are to dig in. Just like house breaking, the repetition will teach the dog that the designated area is exactly where he is allowed to dig at without punishment.

If you would like to buy some Dog shampoo be sure to check out this site right now. Also be sure to view the wide variety of Dog supplies right now!

November 9, 2008

Looking for More Facts About How Dogs Use Their Tails as Signals

Filed under: Basic Information — admin @ 11:46 pm

Dogs Use Their Tails As Signals and Gestures

Tail position is an important indicator of social standing and mental state of a dog. There will be some variations, of course, depending upon the natural tail position of the dog: a West Highland white terrier will carry its carrot-shaped tail higher than a golden retriever its flowing, feathery tail, and a greyhound’s relaxed tail position is lower yet.

Almost horizontal, pointing away from the dog but not stiff: This is a sign of attention.

Straight out horizontally, pointing away from the dog: This is part of an initial challenge when meeting a stranger or an intruder.

Tail up, between the horizontal and vertical position: This is the sign of a dominant dog, or one who is asserting dominance, and translates as “I’m boss here.”

Tail up and slightly curved over the back: “I’m top dog,” this says. It is the expression of a confident, dominant dog who feels in control.

Tail held lower than the horizontal but still some distance from the legs: “I’m relaxed.” “All is well.”

Tail down, near hind legs: This changes its meaning with the posture of the dog. If the legs are still straight and the tail slightly brushes back and forth, it means “I’m not feeling well” or “I’m a bit depressed.” If the legs are slightly bent inward, giving a slight downward slope to the back it means “I’m feeling a bit insecure,” especially in an unknown setting or situation.

Tail tucked between the legs: “I’m frightened!” or “Don’t hurt me!” This is especially common in the presence of a dominant dog or person, when it can also mean, “I accept my lowly role in the pack, and I’m not trying to challenge you.

Bristling hair down the tail: The bristle in the dog’s tail is a sign of aggression. It may modify any tail position. Thus, with the straight out it means “I’m ready to fight if you are!” and with the tail slightly up or over the back it means “I’m not afraid of you and will fight to prove I’m boss.”

Crick or sharp bend in the tail when held high: this is more characteristic of the dogs that look like wolves, such as the German shepherds, and means much the same as the tail bristing.

Broad tail wag: “I like you.” This is often shown during play, when one dog seems to be attacking the other, pouncing, growling, and barking. The wagging tail serves as reassurance that this is all in fun. It also means “I’m pleased” in many contexts.

Slow tail wag, with tail at half-mast: During dog training, I interpret this as “I’m trying to understand you. I want to know what you mean, but I just can’t quite figure it out.” When the dog finally solves the problem, the speed and size of the tail wags will usually markedly increase.

Read more about free dog training (dog behavior training in particular) and how to house train dog.

The Good And Bad Of Beagle Paper Training

Filed under: Potty Training — admin @ 3:45 pm

Housebreaking your beagle, regardless of the age, can be a very difficult thing to do if the dog is not responding to traditional methods. It can be frustrating when you think you have tried everything and your dog still goes wherever it wants to. One important thing to remember is that striking the dog is the absolute worst thing you can do and locking them in a pen all night when they are having issues going in the house can be very counter productive. Remember that you do not want to cause other bad habits in an effort to try and stop this bad habit.

You may have to resort to beagle paper training and if you do it right it should work, but the key is to do it right and be very patient. Your real first step should be a trip to the vet because there could be a physical reason why your beagle is going in the house. Once you get a clean bill of health from the vet then it is time to try alternatives.
You should try to avoid beagle paper training at all costs. One way to avoid the papers is to set aside a 48-hour period where you can take your dog to the spot outside you want them to use every hour on the hour. When they do their business in that spot then offer a great deal of positive reinforcement. After forty-eight straight hours they should get the idea of what you are trying to teach them.

A second idea is to simply watch your dog every minute for two complete days. If they start to show signs that they are going to make a mess then walk to your dog, do not lunge at them, and point at them and say a firm one word command like “No” and then take them to their outside spot. When they are done make them feel like they just saved a life with massive positive reinforcement.
If beagle paper training is your only option then lay several layers of papers in the area that the dog uses for their personal toilet and try and surround this area with a pen. When the dog uses the papers then use positive reinforcement. After a while they will know they can use the papers and they will use them every time. Gradually move the papers towards the door and gradually put parts of the papers outside and a smaller part of the papers inside. The beagle should be begging to go outside on the papers when there isn’t enough paper inside. From there you still have to train your dog on being able to hold their business in until it is time to go out and then where in the yard to do it.

Paper training really only does a small part of the job and you are still not getting the dog used to waiting until you get home to do its business. But it can work if done right. Remember that when you clean the papers to always leave a small amount of soiled papers in the new pile so they know to use the papers still. Good luck.

You will find good beagle training advice in this article. This article is a good secondary source to dog training books on housebreaking your beagle.

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