My Dumb Dog

Are you a hunter who takes his dog out onto the field? If so, you must carry first aid kits, not just for yourself but for your dog, as well. Injuries can occur at anytime, so you should be prepared to treat small injuries before they become very serious. The good news is that there are an abundance of great first aid kits for hunting dogs that you can use at home or out on the field.

Your dog is depending on you to care for him at home and out on the field. After all, this is your responsibility. In the event that your dog becomes hurt, will you be prepared to treat his wound with sanitary medical dressing? That’s the difference between being prepared and using an old shirt or rag, which can actually lead to deadly infections and make the injuries worse. It’s worth the couple extra dollars to have a first aid kit for dogs on hand.

Here is what to look for in a good gun dogs first aid kit:

A First Aid Guide
The first aid guide will show you basic first aid for dogs for both small injuries (like wound treatment for scraps) and life-threatening injuries (like mouth-to-snout resuscitation). There should be clear instructions for the use of all items contained within the first aid kit, as well. To be best prepared for emergencies, you should read the first aid guide and learn the basics before emergencies happen. The keyword here is “emergencies” — first aid is not the replacement for regular veterinary visits.

Tweezers
This is a very helpful tool for removing splinters, ticks, and more. Splinters can go into the pad of a dog’s foot or elsewhere and work its way deeper and cause discomfort, and worse, abscesses. It’s best to treat them right away before they are forgotten and enters further in, causing infections that can spread to other parts of the body.

Good old Hydrogen Peroxide
This simple, cheap, and misunderstood liquid is the basis for any good first aid kit. It’s a sterilizer that can be used safely on animals and causes no discomfort. Use with a sterile gauze pad to clean a wound, prep a splinter site before removal and after you’re done, and so forth.

Iodine
A small bottle of iodine is the next step up from peroxide and can be used to more thoroughly clean a wound or cut before bandaging. Even better is to use the peroxide and then the iodine on the wound before bandaging. Iodine can make a wound heal much faster.

Antibiotic Ointment
No dog first aid kit would be complete without this ointment which can help with insect stings, scratches and scrapes and other minor injuries. Make sure you have a tube of this ointment!

Eyewash
A simple saline solution for washing out the eyes can make your dog’s life much easier and save his vision in some cases. When your dog gets something in his eye that he can’t get rid of on his own, use this to clean them. A quick squirt into the eye and nature will do the rest in most cases.

Trauma Pad
A trauma pad is crucial if your dog is seriously injured; it will help minimize bleeding and help keep the wound bound as well as providing assistance in transporting your dog to emergency help. When shopping for a trauma pad watch out that the sizing is correct for your dogs needs.

Gauze, Tape, and Scissors
Simple tools that, when used correctly, can greatly help your dog in times of injury. If your dog is cut, scratched, or similarly hurt, you’ll want to bandage, gauze over, then tape the wound so it is protected from infection. These three tools can do that job quickly.

Don’t risk your dog’s happiness with being out on a hunting trip with you by being unprepared for an emergency. A good first aid kit is a helpful tool whether you’re out hunting or at home and is full of great hunting dog supplies. There is nothing that you can do more easily for your dogs’ safety than have a good first aid kit.

It’s summer and it seems like fleas are everywhere. Luckily, today’s pet owner has an arsenal of flea treatments at their disposal. Pyrethrin is a safe and widely used insecticide. Methoprene and Fenoxycarb are insect growth regulators (IGR) which prevent eggs and larvae from developing into pupae. Always treat hunting dogs and their environment at the same time.

Fleas are difficult to kill – their pupa are resistant to most insecticides because of the cocoon they wrap themselves in – and this often results in new fleas being hatched about two weeks after you perform a treatment. What most people don’t realize is that the lifespan of a flea can vary from as little as two (2) weeks to as much as eight (8) months. If you fail to kill the pupa before they hatch you have to start the entire process all over again.

Flea Baths
When you wash your dog with flea bath using special flea shampoo, any live fleas will be killed. A flea dip is very strong and excessively laden with chemicals, so use them with care and only in severe situations. Stay away from flea dips if you have small children at home.

Spot On Medications
This type of flea treatment is administered between the shoulder blades of the pet. It’s a monthly treatment that will kill adult fleas for sure, and some brands will even prevent larvae and egg growth. These medications can only be used on dogs older than eight weeks. Water activities, like swimming or baths can make spot on medications less effective.

Pill Flea Treatment
Perhaps one of the easiest and most effective flea control is this one for the simple reason that it acts similar to birth control! These pills are effective for one month and they sterilize any flea that bites your dog preventing them from laying eggs before they die. The other advantage of this treatment is that it doesn’t wash off making it ideal for dogs that stay indoors.

Natural Methods
Not everyone likes to use chemicals for flea control purposes. If this is the case, you should vacuum thoroughly as often as possible. In addition to carpets, vacuum furniture, pillows, and bedding. Properly discard the bag, or burn it, right away. Secondly, you should wash everything in the hot water cycle. Lastly, use dried pennyroyal, diactomaceous earth, or pyretthrum powder. Apply it on pet bedding and underneath cushions and mattresses. However, don’t use pennyroyal if your dog is pregnant. Repeat this process every few days.

Clean from inside out
Pet bedding, furniture, cushions, and thick carpets are fleas’ havens. Before treatment, always vacuum everything and everywhere in your home. Then, burn or properly discard vacuum bags immediately. Fleas love dust and hair, so this is important. It’s also important to wash all pet clothing and bedding in hot water. Insecticides are most effective on young, immature fleas.

Outside, fleas love wet, shady areas like dog houses, flower beds, and under decks or porches. Treat any location where your pet spends a lot of time. Fully mow and rake your yard. Get rid of leaves in flower beds and under bushes to increase the areas exposed to insecticides. The garage, basement and other places with non-carpeted floors should be thoroughly mopped to get rid of flea larvae hiding in crevices. Wash pet carriers and vacuum the car!

You can also choose a fogger or spray for your home, yard, and other areas, as they are very effective. You may need to repeat treatment in areas of severe infestation, usually every 2 or 3 weeks.

Flea bites cause all kinds of problems for pets and people. Intense itching can lead to skin problems, hair loss and infections. A bad infestation can lead to anemia and tapeworms. Allergies to flea saliva can cause flea dermatitis. Getting rid of a flea infestation is imperative for the health of your pet. Following these steps will help your pet and your home stay flea free.

There are all sorts of hunting dog supplies that are important for you to consider to keep your dogs healthy and safe. Some of them include dog training collars and dog fences.